August 13, 2004

• My favorite Julia Child quote: "Anything that says 'healthy' I say away from... Giving up butter, for instance, means that in about two years you will be covered in dandruff." You also had to admire her total lack of trepidation regarding the use of raw lard and entrails.
• I grew up watching her on PBS. Sesame Street? Electric Company? Bah! Bring on the coq au vin! Viva La Child!
• Yes, very sad stuff. IIRC, she once said her two favorite national cuisines were French and Chinese. I couldn't agree more. RIP, dear lady. I'll make a deal with someone here: I've got me a kick-ass curry recipe (adaptable for vegetarians, no less, AND good for those with wheat allergies), if someone can point me to a good fantastic quiche recipe. I've never found one in a cookbook that measures up to what I've had in good restaurants.
• I used to see her on foot, back in the 70's, barrelling ahead on her way back to Brattle Street after shopping at Cambridge's Broadway Super Market. Her husband would be following a few paces behind her, carrying all of the bags. Later, I got to sample things she'd whip up in her kitchen using oils -- lemon, orange, garlic, basil -- that a mutual friend was bringing onto the market. Yum! RIP, old girl.
• there is a hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese place in San Francisco off Market St., right in among all the crack hotels, that features her picture (with her permission) on the menu. apparently, despite the fluorescent linoleum with cockroach ambience, she was a huge fan of their food and visited whenever she was in town. she was one of the great cultural icons of my life to this point, and a gourmet of and for the people, indeed.
• While I agree that a luminary force in the world has left us, I can't say I agree with the "sad" sentiments. She lived to be 91, and I would hazard to say she truly lived those years, with the same passion and vigor she put into her cooking. She is a thumbed nose in the face of those who whinge about obsessive health regimes. who are we to say it was not the butter that was responsible for her longevity?? I say we all honor her memory by living fearlessly and passionately, not as mindless gluttons but as life-embracing epicureans savoring all that is rich and beautiful in life. Viva Julia indeed!
• What a grand way to go. After a long life of travel, good food and interesting people, dying in your sleep. I hope she was dreaming about cooking up something lovely for breakfast. In her honor I'm going to make pasta with fresh tomatoes and basil from my garden. *raises glass of pinot noir* Cheers Julia. Cheers Monkeys.
• I grew up watching Julia Child, followed by a host of other cooking shows once she'd opened my eyes. My mom and I would watch many of them together religiously. Not surprising if you know the kind of food we ate nightly. I remember the first time I realized that not everyone was accustomed to such things curried pork chops, ginger beef, chile verde, and coq au vin on a fairly regular basis; how very nearly shocked I was to discover that the richness I grew up on was not typical. Friends were equally shocked to discover that my first solid food was ginger beef, that cumin-rubbed chicken with avocado salsa is just a normal, everyday dish rather than something special. We are each a slave to our tastebuds, and think nothing of spending three or four hours in the kitchen preparing for dinner. pete_best said: I thought this could also be a good place to spark some recipe / cooking sharing. Well, since no one has started sharing yet, and I'm a foodie from a tradition of foodies, I'll be the first. Chinese-style roast pork tenderloin with chutney-garlic sauce 1 1/2 pounds pork tenderloin 1/3 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons medium-dry Sherry 2 tablespoons ketchup 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh gingerroot For the sauce 3 garlic cloves, minced 6 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1/2 cup bottled mango chutney, such as Cross and Blackwell Major Grey's 2 tablespoons honey 1 teaspoon Oriental (toasted) sesame oil steamed rice as an accompaniment In a small, deep dish just large enough to hold the pork, combine the soy sauce, the Sherry, the ketchup, the brown sugar, the lemon juice, the garlic, the gingerroot, and pepper to taste. Add the pork, turning to coat it thoroughly, and let it marinate, covered and chilled, three hours to overnight. Make the sauce just before cooking the pork: In a small saucepan, combine the garlic, the soy sauce, and the vinegar, and bring the mixture to a boil. Simmer for 3 minutes. Stir in the chutney, the honey, the oil, and 1/4 cup water and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring. Cover and set aside. Arrange the pork on a rack in a roasting pan, reserving the marinade in a small bowl. Add 1/2 inch hot water to the pan, and roast the pork in a preheated 350 degree F. oven, basting it occasionally only during the first hour wiht the reserved marinade, for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until a meat thermometer registers 155 degrees F. for meat that is just cooked through but still juicy. Transfer the pork to a cutting board and let it stand for 5 minutes. Carve the pork diagonally into thin slices. Arrange the slices on a heated platter and spoon the sauce over. Serve with steamed rice. Serves about four to six.
• excellent Christophine - thanks for kicking it off. I'm afraid to say that my home cooking wasn't necessarily 4-star, and it sort of became frozen food after that but I'm working my way towards epicurean redemption. Fresh ingredients, organic when possible. Would any foodies here recommend a cooking class? I know how to do basic things but is it *that* important to know how to julienne a carrot etc? Can't I just get that off the Inferweb?
• You said it very well, Medusa. My sentiments exactly. *lifts glass
• Some of the food blogs that I read on a regular basis.
• Fact that I learned about Julia today: she wanted to be a spy. I always knew she was cool, but that is too fabulous. MCT: I don't know what part of your quiches are failing you - the custard, or the crust? The custard is usually pretty standard (as a base). For an 8-in shell, beat 3 eggs in a large glass cup measure (4c); then add (WHOLE) milk to the 1.5c mark; then salt and (white) pepper plus whatever specials you like (nutmeg is Julia Child's recommendation, I like fresh grated ginger, my brother adds a few drops of chili sauce). For a larger shell, an an egg per inch and milk to next 1/2 c. gradient (v. haphazard style I know but always works for me. When pouring custard in, keep an eye to not overfill crust). The crust is tougher because pastry requires a dedication to precision that I am not good at. Things to remember: resting is key, for flaky buttery crust. That said, here goes: Roll pastry to pie plate (quiche-specific if you have one, i.e. straight verticle crimped edge). Crimp sides if not done already, poke fork holes then put in freezer for 1/2 hr (not an optional step). Preheat to 425°F. Line plate with al.foil and load w/ dried beans or pastry weights and bake for 15 min. in bottom of oven. Take weights/foil out, return to oven for 5 min (looking for a nice golden brown). Let it rest while you make the custard. Some people say par-baking is unnecessary so I'd recommend trying it both ways and seeing what you like or if you notice a difference. Fillings are the easiest becasue hey, whatever man. My favourite is spinach/feta/roasted red pepper but chacon son gout. First, scatter grated cheese (whatever you're putting in the filling) on crust bottom to create a protective anti-sog layer. Add fillings to custard (if cheese/onion variety), then pour in. Put the chunkier (ham, spinach etc.) bits in bottom of crust then pour custard over. You can sprinkle more nutmeg/pepper/whatever you'd like atop. Return to oven for about 30 minutes or until done (shake it gently - if noting really moves, you're there. Or, stick a tester/knife in to see if its clean). Depending on your oven/altitude/etc. you may need to put al.foil on the edge to prevent overbrown/blackening after 15 or so minutes, so watch it. Serve immediatement; or let cool completely and serve cold. If you try it, let me know how it goes. This is a combination of Child, The French Laundry and my brother (My Brother, Professional Chef - his official title). (and trey, I agree; chocolateandzucchini is always a fun read.)
• Heh, look at that. Huge long post, and still didn't give you a pastry recipe. Ok. Use food processor to cut down on handling (=flakier) if you can. 1-1/2c standard flour 8T unsalted butter (chilled, cut in small cubes) chilled water (about 4-6T) (sea or kosher) salt (largeish pinch) Process salt and flour; add cubed butter and pulse until coarse crumbly bits. Add water in stages, pulsing, until pastry begins to hold together in large clumps. Dump pastry onto floured work surface and form into ball, then let it rest at room temp. for at least an hour before rolling into plate.
• Thanks, ilya. I've got a couple of good crust recipes, but the custard always seems to come out soggy and bland, no matter what I put in it or how I cook it. I'll have to give yours a try! Curry will be posted here as soon as I get to the recipe.
• pete_best: I can only answer based on my personal experience, really. I've never taken a cooking class. I learned the basics from my mother, and from there I'm entirely self-taught. The various techniques, such as your example of julienned carrots, vary in necessity from recipe to recipe and cuisine to cuisine. Sometimes it's about presentation (how a dish looks when complete) and sometimes it's about the speed with which something cooks. As an example, the julienned carrots you mentioned could be as a finishing touch to enhance the look of the dish. If you care less about presentation and more about taste, it's not so vital to know how to precisely julienne a carrot. On the other hand, it can be about the amount of time to cook something through. I specialized fairly heavily in Chinese cooking. If something there is supposed to be julienned, or a fine mince, or a dice, or whatever, it's because of the high heat and fast cooking time of stir-fried dishes. Small pieces like a julienne or mince will cook through without overcooking in Chinese cooking. Also, precision in slicing is fairly important in most cuisines. Whatever kind of cutting/slicing you're doing, the end result needs to be fairly uniform in size. Otherwise, you may have some that is overcooked and soggy and/or tough, while other bits are undercooked/raw in the middle. The best way to learn this kind of stuff is practice, really, especially if you'd rather not take cooking classes. It is certainly possible to learn a high level of cooking skill without taking classes. I myself have developed a fairly high degree of skill with Chinese techniques, including such things as the process called "velvetting," not the simplest thing in the world in practice. Often, an excellent cookbook can be a good place to start. Most of my skill at Chinese cooking, for example, I learned through Barbara Tropp's book, The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking. It's an excellent manual of technique as well as a great repository of yummy recipes. Since she does spend so much time on technique and equipment, it can also be a good grounding in techniques that will help in cooking other cuisines. I very highly recommend this book.
• I should add, also, that cooking shows can be helpful. In most, you can at least see samples of how the knife is used for various cutting techniques, what a saute looks and sounds like, the amount of bubbling you will or won't see when you're simmering something. Aside from the basics I learned from my mother, shows by Julia Child, Jeff Smith, Alton Brown, PBS's Great Chefs series, Martin Yan, Mario Batali, and yes, even Emeril Lagassi, as much as there are some who dislike him, have all had something to teach me just from watching the shows. I hope some of this is of use to you.
• my experience: taking cooking classes are fun, and if offered by an actual cooking school or a well-equiped community college, the teaching will have a great deal of personal experience AND (key) the right equipment. This makes it easier to get a basic introduction to a cuisine without a huge outlay into materials and did I mention, it's fun. But, as Christophine says, not necessary. A class won't do anything more for your julienneing skills than a glance through any number of websites or cookbooks. You just need a good knife and lots of carrots. Also, I would have to add Nigella Lawson and Jean-George Vongerichten to the list of People to Learn From. Both have great attitudes to cooking and food and are incidentally very good at it.
• If your quiche filling is soggy, use whole cream instead of milk. A bit of parmesan in the mix is nice too. I prefer coarse-ground white or green pepper to the white stuff, but w/ever. At the risk of upsetting some people, I find commercial puff pastry works pretty well for the base and will save you time to boot. And what Christophine said about the julienning, especially with stir-fries and the like.
• coarse-ground white Sorry, coarse-ground *black*.
• *looks around for curry recipe* *eyes mct* *checks watch, taps foot* This friendly reminder brought to you by a curry-addicted Monkey, in the interest of improving curry recipes everywhere.
• You're Christophine, and you approve that message.
• Crap, sorry, forgot about that completely. I'll put it up tonight, promise. It's taaaaaaasty.
• Woohoo! Looking forward to it, mct!
• Okay, here we go. I stumbled across this when my wife's doctor put her on a two-week allergy diet (long story). So it's good for people with food allergies, and can be made in face or no-face varieties. My wife and I always make this with chicken, and we've found that dark meat works best -- white meat's flavor tends to get drowned out in this. I recommend about three boneless, skinless thigh cutlets. 2T olive oil 1/2c chopped onions 1T curry powder 2T brown rice flour (I've not tried anything other than rice flour, but you might be able to substitute) 2-3 garlic cloves, minced 2c chicken or vegetable broth or stock (1 soup can worth) 1/4 to 1/2t salt (to taste) 1/4c raisins or dried cranberries 1 apple, chopped 1/2t ginger 1/4t thyme 3 whole cloves 1 bay leaf 2-3 c cooked cubed lamb, chicken, or mixed veggies 2T grated unsweetened coconut (optional) Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and saute 5 minutes. Reduce heat. Sprinkle with curry powder and cook, stirring, for 3 min. Add flour and garlic and cook, stirring, for 3 min. Add stock or broth and cook, whisking or stirring constantly, for 3 min or until thick and smooth (I usually do this at least five min). Season with salt to taste. Stir in apples, raisins/cranberries, ginger, thyme, cloves, and bay leaf, and cook stirring occasionally for 15 min. Add meat or veggies and cook until heated through. Discard cloves and bay leaf and serve over quinoa or brown rice. Top with coconut if desired.
• MonkeyFilter: Top with coconut if desired.
• That sounds yummy, and it's very different from the chicken curry I've been making. I can't wait to give it a try. Thanks, mct!
• I live only to serve. If you need gift ideas, I have an amazon wish list now.
• mct - I've never used rice flour - do you notice a different taste?
• I honestly don't know. The reason the recipe uses rice flour instead of wheat or "all-purpose" is that it came from an allergy cookbook, so it's wheat-free. I've never tried using any other kind of flour, and I hesitate to do so because (a) I have rice flour (this is the only thing I use it for), and (b) I'd hate to do the substitution and find out that it screws it up somehow. I doubt the latter would really happen, but I tend to be anal about following recipes. Anyway, you can get small bags of it cheap at pretty much any major supermarket -- they usually carry it in the "organic" section, rather than with the baking stuff.
• good to know! I saw my first electric mill the other day - about the size of a breadmaker, only you put in whatever grains and it makes flour. Cool! I'm such a newbie . . . which way does the fork go in?